Fashion has always been an industry with enormous variety. Styles are constantly changing, evolving, and referencing an earlier time. Even this early into the year, 2011 promises to be a year of with huge range and big names. Perhaps none have demonstrated this enormous artistic range better than Celine and Ackermann.
Celine subscribes to Coco Chanel’s saying, “elegance is refusal.” Pheobe Philo, working for the label Celine, demonstrated this in a show that featured slim skirts, and plain shirts in neutral tones that made the fashion “disappear.” However, that is not to say the collection was starkly minimalist. The pants were fitted and sexy, the coats had waists, and the turtle necks added a youthful, sporty quality. The effect was pleasingly realistic, and critics hail it as Philo’s best show since taking over the house.
On the other side of the spectrum the flamboyance, passion, and drama of Ackermann was not quite so well received. Though the darkly romantic style the house in known for was out in full force, with extra wide belts, twisted jackets, and long hobble skirts, critics generally thought that the collection was drawing on the same narrow range of ideas that showed up last season. This resulted in calls for him to stop with the mellow drama and give his models a real look to wear.
However, despite his less than successful debut this year, there is a great deal of speculation that Ackerman may fill John Gallion’s place at Dior. Perhaps this is why he tried to stick to his strengths in his recent show. Though this plan may have backfired, all of this is still speculation at this point.